Jinbaori Vest

During the Italian Renaissance, the silk trade was in full swing from Venice
to Japan. The European traders wore a fashionable (practical in cold winters)
loose fitting short-sleeved jacket or vest over their doublet and armor. As
fashions go, ideas get exchanged as people travel. This “exotic” piece of
clothing impressed the Samurai warlords. They took the idea and made it into
their own style of short-sleeved jacket or vest, called the Jinbaori.

 The Samurai rode horses into battle. The split back was designed so the
garment would have the greatest visual impact while standing or astride a horse.
The Jinbaori was elaborately decorated, often with a large, eye-catching
applique on the back to make them stand out on the battlefield and as a symbol
of prestige and courage. As many variations of the Jinbaori came about as there
were seamstresses to make them and individualistic men who wanted them. Short
versions, long versions, with and without sleeves, elaborate and more subtle,
all are simple and beautiful garments made to move within and made to make a
statement.

 “Opening Clothes”
Hillesø Designs started working with several artists, dressing them for their
art exhibit “openings”. The garments created made a statement about the artists
themselves, allowing them to be a “piece of art” on display too. One of those
artists was Catherine E. Skinner.
Catherine’s vest works with her art. It is well-traveled, sophisticated, both
serene and dynamic at the same time. We created her piece with one of the
textiles she acquired on her travels to Indonesia. The piece was then cut into
shapes and elements of the textile design that created a beautiful flowing
garment that was easy to wear, was subtle and distinctive.


Designer: Randi Hillesø
Photography: Lise Metzger and Davis Freeman