Chinoise Evening Coat
Like many Hillesø Designs garments, found objects and fashion history become the inspiration.
This coat was first inspired by the gift of an antique Mandarin
Chinese skirt. The second inspirations were the fuchsia and purple silks from
Okinawa, Japan, a gift from a returning soldier after the Korean War. Next, was
a gathering of other gifts: metallic baubles and seemingly miles of metallic
braid.
Like assembling fine ingredients for a great meal, this fusion coat was
further inspired by 18th Century men’s fashion: cuff and collar details, the
overall elaborate military look, etc. Other influences of the Maharajas of India
also come into play. As it turned out, the ingredients and details created the
garment.
Preserving old textiles in a garment can be tricky and this was no
exception. As the silk of the antique skirt was deteriorating, the beautiful
embroidery was cut out, preserving the intricate stitching. The shapes of the
pieces determined the decoration. Forty yards of the narrow vintage metallic
braid outlines the embroidery pieces, color layering and details on the cuffs.
The coat itself is semi-fitted with a deep vent in the back, much like a tuxedo
tails coat. It is fully lined in silk with additional finishing touches inside.
Designer: Randi Hillesø
Photography: Christine Prefontaine
This coat was first inspired by the gift of an antique Mandarin
Chinese skirt. The second inspirations were the fuchsia and purple silks from
Okinawa, Japan, a gift from a returning soldier after the Korean War. Next, was
a gathering of other gifts: metallic baubles and seemingly miles of metallic
braid.
Like assembling fine ingredients for a great meal, this fusion coat was
further inspired by 18th Century men’s fashion: cuff and collar details, the
overall elaborate military look, etc. Other influences of the Maharajas of India
also come into play. As it turned out, the ingredients and details created the
garment.
Preserving old textiles in a garment can be tricky and this was no
exception. As the silk of the antique skirt was deteriorating, the beautiful
embroidery was cut out, preserving the intricate stitching. The shapes of the
pieces determined the decoration. Forty yards of the narrow vintage metallic
braid outlines the embroidery pieces, color layering and details on the cuffs.
The coat itself is semi-fitted with a deep vent in the back, much like a tuxedo
tails coat. It is fully lined in silk with additional finishing touches inside.
Designer: Randi Hillesø
Photography: Christine Prefontaine