A Brief History of the Bow Tie.....

The Bow Tie is an unforgettable expression of individuality, of character and of mood.

Many famous people have worn bow ties throughout history: Mayor Anthony Williams (Washington, DC), Bryant Gumbel, Abraham Lincoln, Rudolph Valentino, Maurice Chevalier, Fred Astaire, James Bond, The Cat in the Hat. Even Chanel put bow ties on women in the 1950's.

The earliest notion of the bow tie dates back to the Romans. Roman orators wore neck cloths to keep their vocal chords warm. Also, in the tomb of the first Chinese emperor, 7,500 terracotta soldiers from around 300 BC were found, all wearing tied neck cloths.

Soldiers throughout history have worn neck cloths of some sort, for both decorative and functional purposes. Early neck cloths were wrapped so many times that they stopped sword thrusts. Neckerchiefs identified which side of the battle a soldier was fighting. They could be removed to wipe a perspiring brow, or to wave as a signal flag. As a part of a uniform, neck cloths add a dapper touch to the military style.

Speeding through history to the 1650's, the neck cloth began to be the true fashion element it is today. During the mid 17th century, the neck cloth was worn loosely tied inside an open collared jacket. In 1660, in celebration of its hard-fought victory over Turkey, a sharp military regiment from Croatia visited Paris. At this time, all members of the regiment from the lowest soldier to the highest ranking officer, wrapped narrow, brightly colored scarves around their necks. The soldiers were presented as glorious heroes to Louis XIV, a monarch well known for his eye toward personal adornment, and the sophisticated French were enchanted by the dashing appearance of the soldiers. The style was adopted as a novel neck accessory that the French dubbed "Cravat" from the French word for the Croatian regiment. Suddenly, the "cravat" became the Paris fashion rage.

In 1684, the military uniform again modified the cravat. The sudden and unexpected victory of the French at the Battle of Steinkirk caught the French officers of the conquering regiment unawares. Unable to complete their detailed toilettes, which included the meticulous wrapping of their cravats, they hastily put them around their necks, twisted the ends and tucked them through the buttonholes of their military jackets to secure the loose-hanging ends. This new style was called the "Steinkirk" and was quickly adopted by both men and women in Paris.

During the French Revolution (1789), the upheaval of class created a simultaneous upheaval of fashion. Cravats and Jabots, or ruffled neck cloths, abounded. The "Incroyable", the fashion dandies of the time, wore enormous neck cloths - so large that it often extended over the stiff standing collar and over the mouth. This was a time of cultivated extreme casualness of dress that included oversized jackets and untidy hairstyles.

By the early 19th century, the exaggerated nature of the Incroyable was transformed into the perfection of the Romantics. Neckwear was now the most important feature of male attire. It was elevated to an art form and often credited to the most famous dandy: Beau Brummel. In 1828, H. Le Blanc published "The Art of Tying Your Cravat", showing 30 different ways to tie a cravat. Another publication was entitled "The Arts of Tying a Cravat in Sixteen Lessons", presenting 32 ways of tying the fashion statement. By the end of the Romantic period, a more conservative approach was taken and the ties were made of silk in subtle or somber colors.

For the remainder of the 19th century, the collar became the more important focus, relegating the tie to soft bows or string ties, or a crisp tailored bow with a wide flat knot. It was not until after World War I that the Dandies again picked up the bow tie. It was often seen in school colors with a straw boater. The New Romantics emulated Rudolph Valentino and Fred Astaire and wore the bow tie with evening clothes.

With the advent of World War II, the military and conservative casualness took over. Neckwear for men evolved into the necktie and bow tie that we know and love today. From the tailored to the flamboyant, the bow tie is a way for today's gentleman (or woman) to change their look to suit their mood and occasion.

Dare to be different and distinctive. Be memorable - wear a bowtie.

Custom bow ties are available from Hillesø & Company Designs.

to top