Hand-Woven/Hand-Dyed: The Ikat

What is it, anyway?

Various processes are used to create decoration on cloth. Two broad categories include surface design and woven design. Surface design is any type of decoration that is applied, including dying, painting, printing, appliqués, etc. Woven designs typically involve dying fibers prior to weaving, allowing the weaving techniques to create the design of the textile.

An Ikat is a piece of cloth woven from fibers that have been dyed prior to weaving. Either the warp threads (the lengthwise fibers in a cloth) or the weft (the crosswise fibers), or both fibers, can be bound and dyed before stringing on the loom.

The word "Ikat" is derivative of the Malaysian word "mengikat" which means, "to tie". Ikat refers to binding fibers with grasses, plastic or other impenetrable materials to form a "resist", an area where the dye bath will not penetrate. The dyeing process is repeated numerous times with different colors to produce a repeat pattern. After the warp, weft, or both are dyed, the fibers are then set on the loom and woven.

The process of weaving the pattern after the fibers are dyed produces a blurred effect, because of the capillary action along the yarn, or the way the yarns absorb the dye. It creates a fuzzy edge that is accentuated during weaving. In Central Asia, the weaving process is called "Abra" meaning, "cloud".

The ikat dying process can be found in many parts of the world. Some diverse examples of the process have been found throughout history in Pre-Columbian Peru, Egypt, the Middle East, India, Japan, Southeast Asia, Guatemala, Nigeria and Central Asia. The Ikat was developed to a fine art during the Middle Ages to the Renaissance in the above areas of the world as tapestry was developed in Western Europe.

As with any artistic media, the ikat developed many personalities in different parts of the world. The designs and materials vary widely from region to region. However, the ikat was universal as a symbol of status and prestige. In Central Asia, layers of ikat coats were worn as symbols of wealth. In Indonesia, the most beautiful ikats adorned noblemen or their retainers and were used by ceremonial dancers. In each culture, the ikat illustrated a degree of economic security to support artistic license, allowing the time-intensive dyeing and weaving processes, rather than performing more routine domestic duties.

Ikats from several countries are represented in the Hillesø & Company Designs Collection. The following photographs illustrate some of the diversity in the woven designs.

From India: Silk warp ikat. Both examples are woven from brightly colored silk warp fibers with a solid color weft. In this case, the one is woven with a solid copper color and the other with solid white. Both produce a watercolor effect.

From Bali: Cotton warp ikat. Long, finely combed cotton fibers are dyed in a repeat border pattern in very bright colors, then woven with black to subdue the overall look of the fabrics. The Balinese fabrics have been used in blouses, as trims to jackets and vests, custom blouses and complete jackets as in the Border Jacket.

From Indonesia: Silk warp ikat. The two examples shown here are antique Indonesian sarongs. Both have a single decorated border at the hem. Beautifully dyed and woven, a vintage sarong might embellish a particular jacket and provides a touch of worldly elegance to the Short Haori Jackets in decorative bands, panels or applique on garments.

Also from Indonesia, from the island of Java, come beautiful cotton ikats. Above is the "Smile" Jacket made from a cotton blanket. Other designs utilizing the cotton ikats of Java as well as other parts of Indonesia have appeared in jackets, vests and skirts.

From Japan: Cotton "Kasuri". In Japan, the ikat changes its name, but not the process. The three shown here are all traditional designs typical of indigo field clothing. All are double ikats, where both the warp and the weft are tied off and dyed prior to weaving. These cottons were made into a soft comfortable jacket.

Ikat fabrics are still being produced in various parts of the world. Some are available in quantity, some only as long or as wide as a loom will permit. Hillesø & Company Designs will continue to utilize these beautiful fabrics whenever sources are available.